27.7.2014 Victoria to San Juan

We woke up late, as always. Then we went to Victoria for Sightseeing. At first we tried some of the so called "Victoria Creme" chocolates, although I think that Zotter Chocolates are better. then we entered the "Empress" Hotel which was quite nice. After that we went through some Markets and came to Chinatown, but we didn't stay long there. After that we grabbed a Watertaxi and went to Fisherman's Warf where we admired the beautiful floating-homes. 

After that we stood line for some Fish and Chips at "Barbs Fish and Chips". They were really tasty but there where way too many Fries to eat them all up. We also saw a guy right behind us drop his smartphone into the water-as it seams there are some really stupid people in this world. 

Then we got out of the city and drove to Sidney (not the one in Australia), where we rode on a Ferry, which took us to Friday Harbour on San Juan Island, Washington Sate, USA. 

As a dinner we ate some Sandwiches, which had almost enough salad to feed a rabbit for a week (we were in the US after all) before we went to sleep in a Hotel which we had booked for Selma to make up for the muddy Juan de Fuca Trail.

Saturday, July 26 - Galopping Goose Trail

At first we had a little bit of difficulties because we could not find the bikepath. But once we foud it we started riding and enjoyed it a lot.

We rode like one and a half hours and then we made a little break on a lake to drink water and rest a little bit.

Then we rode on like two hours, but what felt like four because we all were getting very hungry.
So we started looking for a restaurant - the guidebook said there would be plenty along the road - but did not find anything eatable until we ended up eating sandwiches in a Tim Hortons.

After our lunch (and a few deserts), we continued our bike tour. With our bellies full we were a lot faster, even though you should expect us to be slower because we weight more…

However, we rode on, the second half of the trip was rather ugly (along the highway, no view, ...) until we came to Victoria. The city first seemed to be pretty ugly, but turned out to be nice.

After a little bit sightseeing we tried to figure out how to get back to our camper but the buses we wanted to take only took two bikes.

Our solution: Klaus and Erik went with one bus to get the camper and Selma and Markus went to Langford with the next one. Klaus and Erik almost did not find the two others and, with pure luck, found them at the very same Tim Hortons where we had eaten a few hours before.  

Friday, July 25 – Avatar Grove and Juan de Fuca Trail

Since everyone told us about the Avatar Grove, we go there first. It turns out to be OK but not as glorious as everyone had said it was. We see “Canada´s gnarlies tree” on the upper loop, but we actually think an unlabeled tree on the lower loop is far “gnarlier” than the gnarliest tree.

After that, we head towards the Juan de Fuca trail. Klaus is obsessed with hiking it, but we cannot find a “partner” to swap cars and leave one on each end. So we just take the risk and start hiking anyhow.

The trail turns out to be really, really, really muddy which turns us a bit moody. There are quite some glorious sights of the ocean, and we find a really cool picnic spot for lunch. Apart from that, it is quite strenuous and it takes us about 5 hours to hike 8 km. The entire trail is 47 km, but it does not require registration, unlike the West Coast Trail, its big brother, which goes up north from Port Renfrew and is much more strenuous and longer. The final km or so, we actually manage to hike on the rocky beach, which makes us much faster than in the mud.

We get to the second trailhead at Sombrio Beach, and actually the first couple that we ask gives Klaus a ride. They are heading for the West Coast Trail the day after, so they have time, and drive Klaus all the way to the car. We enjoy the beautiful views of the bay and the Washington mountains behind it, and drive until it gets dark. We hit a campground at Sooke River, which is perfect, because Klaus wants to do the Galopping Goose bike trail on the following day.

Thursday, July 24 – On the road

We leave Port Alberni rather late, as usual, and drive towards Nanaimo again. We stock up at the WalMart in Port Alerbni first. Then we head across the island to the other side. It is a rather small and winding road and eventually ends at Port Renfrew. There we go to the Botanical Beach, which at first seems rather boring, but then walking around in the tide pools is not so bad, either.

We end up on the beach campground, which is rather hard to register, because you have to drive like 3 km into the reservation to find the “office”. But we manage. Our neighbors have a really nice bonfire going, so instead of starting our own, we just join them and stay up chatting until midnight. We even get to see the waves with fluorescent animals in them, pretty amazing!

A day with not many highlights…

Wednesday, July 23 - Kayaking

We get up early because we are planning a Kayak trip to Meade´s island today. It is kind of hard to get everyone out of bed on a very rainy morning, and so we actually arrive 10 past 9 instead of 10 to 9. We get all rigged up and receive instructions on what to do when we capsize and how to row and steer, and off we go. The Kayaks are amazing, you can actually steer them with your feet and a small rudder. Even though it is pouring almost all the time, we have gorgeous views of some islands and the ocean. We get to see two more Bald Eagles, one from really, really close by.

 

We learn that the “chain yourself to a tree” movement actually began here, when the McMillan company wanted to cut down the trees on the island and the First Nation Indians claimed the island to be their garden, which cannot be taken away. However, the treaties do not specify what a garden is exactly, so there is an injunction to stop logging on the island, and this is the current state up to today!

We land at the island and walk on the beautiful rainforest trail among huge red Cedars and spruce trees, in pouring rain… What a glorious island!

Then we jump back into our Kayaks and paddle back. By now at least it has stopped raining! Since the tour guide told us where to find TacoFino, this is of course where we eat. Some burritos which would normally feed a wholy family ;-)

On the way out, Klaus and Erik ride the bike on Long Beach for about an hour, which is gorgeous, because once all the other people are left befind, you are actually all alone on the beach, within islands, forest coastlines, and the occasional driftwood tree. Of course we also have to climb one of the rocks…

Eventually, we head back to the car and start driving back towards the other side of the island, because there actually is no ferry across the huge inlet south of Uculueleth, so Klaus has to change the plan a bit. We stop over at one of the numerous lakes. Then we start finding a campground with a laundry room and finally find one close to Port Alberni. We meet a lady who biked around almost the whole island all by herself and gave us some good tips on what do do where. Se we decide to give up the plan of going to Barnfield, because everyone tells us that it is really hard to get to, and instead decide to go on to Victoria or Port Renfrew the following day. Let´s see how that turns out!

Tuesday, July 22

In the morning, we enjoy the heated showers at the campground. We prepare for a chillout day in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, where Klaus has planned a few small hikes. First, we head to Uclueleth, where we check out the lighthouse and a few steps on the trail. Then we head to the visitor´s center and plan the hikes. The first one is the rainforest loop, a short beautiful loop through a rainforest grove. Afterwards, we check out the bog trail, followed by the Colman Cove, a wonderful beach area, where we see our first Bald Eagle! After these hikes, we head towards the campground. Erik is excited, because it should be our first night in the tent. However, we find out that the reservation was actually for the day before and that in any case we cannot book a walk-in camp site with an RV (for whatever reason). But the lady is very helpful and books us into an RV spot.

Then, we head towards Tofino where we want to eat at TacoFino. However, we cannot find that. So we go to the Tonfino Sea Kayak company, where Klaus had reserved a Kayak trip for the next day, to confirm the date. Good thing, because actually the time was moved and our reservation had not been confirmed. So we agree on 9:00 the next day. After that, we go to SoBo, which was the “in-place” to eat before TacoFino started. The view from there is a bit disappointing, the food however it really good. We also manage to finally send our postcards from Mexico City ;-) By the way, the weather is actually sunny in Tofino, which needs to be noted, because it is the first sun we see since we get to Canada.

Then we head back to the campground, where we want to see the sunset on the beach. This does not work out, because the clouds are back and cover the sunset. What a disappointment… But we did manage to buy firewood, so we make a bonfire and Selma philosophizes with the kids about how many Gods there are and whether the earth is a living being. Markus does not think so, after all the earth is 9.000 degrees in it´s core…

Monday, July 21

We have to choose between two activities: Snorkling with seals or going to the Wild Elements playground to do some Monkido obstacle course, in Austria known as Hochseilgarten. The boys of course to all four difficulty levels, Selma manages to go all the way to level 3, before the height let´s her give up on the black route.

The location also offer bungee jumping and a “primeval swing”, which Erik decides to try out. Quite impressive, but I have to let him explain what it felt like.

After that, we head to downtown Nanaimo and eat at Gabriel´s Café, a wonderful tip from our guide book. Delicious rice bowls and wraps. And Klaus has a coffee and a cookie at the coffee shop on the other side of the street. Markus meanwhile enjoys choosing between one of the 47 WLANs this town has to offer in the parking lot. Then we head off towards the Pacific Coast. On our way there we stop at McMillan Provincial park and check out the Crystal Grove, then at Taylor Creak rest area, where we spend an hour flipping stones in the beautifully green river. And the last stop is at a small parking lot directly at a beautiful lake. The scenery is stunning, with high mountains, covered by snow, and a new huge lake around each corner. At the end, we have to rush a bit, because the office of the Wya Point campground closes at 9:00 pm. We arrive at  8:58.

The campground is really nice, a very private little spot, and almost directly on the beach. There are also Yurts here, small tent houses for rent. The registration deck had told us to get firewood with the guy at the campground, which was not true, because firewood sales close at 9:00. And since it got dark already and there is not much to gather, we cannot make a vonfire in the end. However, we go down to the beach and spend a good hour climbing around on the rocks and enjoying the waves crashing against the rocks. How gorgeous the Pacific Ocean is!

Sunday, July 20: Arriving

We get up at 4:00 to check in at 5:00 at a very busy Mexico City airport (even at this time!). The plane leaves at 6:45, with 30 minutes of delay because the heating system does not work. They adivse us that it will be very cold on board and we get very nervous, because all the jackets are checked in the suitcases. But somehow the pilot manages to get the heater working, so we end up sweating in the plane after all.

We arrive at the beautiful Vancouver airport, and get picked up by the Faserway bus. The transfer into the RV works really, really well, and we can start the trip at around 2:30 by stopping into the McDonald´s next to Fraserway.

Because Rudy told us to, we want to first go to Vancouver Island. So we go to the ferry, which I had reserved beforehand, and have to wait 2 hours (!) without a supermarket to stock up. But we use the time to start organizing a bit in the RV. The ferry trip is quite impressive! All the trucks and RVs in the lower deck, the cars on deck 2 and 3, and 4 more decks for passengers, bars, cafes etc. We buy playing cards and play our first round of cards.

At around 7 we arrive at Nanaimo and go shopping first. Klaus has to find out that you can only buy beer and wine at the Licor stores, but at least here they are open, unlike in Utah. Then we check into our first campsite in Westwood lakes and have our first soup in the camper.